Just a pain in the you know what. If your map light, stereo, turn signals, heated seats, headlights or other electronic components suddenly stop working, chances are you have a fuse that has blown out. Hooked it up, no codes. Mine is run to the battery. In my frustration I pushed the 'eject' button just for the heck of it, and out pops the cd and the radio turns on as if nothing ever happened dunno Click to expand. I've also included the fuse listing from the owner's manual for convenience.
Determine that the underhood lamp is operating properly, then disconnect the lamp wire harness connector or remove the lamp bulb. The multi-meter reading will drop to within the acceptable limit when the source of the excessive current draw is disconnected. A normal vehicle electrical system will draw from five to thirty-five milliamperes 0. If you did ground to the chassis and had any kind of corrosion issues at the connection, your winch would be useless. The stock radio also has an internal fuse. If you need to replace a blown fuse in your Liberty, make sure you replace it with one that has the same amperage as the blown fuse.
So I took to the internet. Go and buy one if you don't already carry a spare. . All were good per the multimeter. I'm concerned about the wire from the battery negative to the frame. However, given that Perry has fixed his steering issues, depending on your proximity to his rig in South Jersey, there will be neither snow nor salt this year, so potential corrosion issues will not be a factor. The vehicle is still under warranty so I figure that it might be an electrical bug.
This will reduce battery discharging. They should be able to figure out if the component needs to be replaced or if there is a short or some other problem with your Liberty. I checked the battery - voltage seemed normal. Connect the multi-meter between the disconnected battery negative cable terminal clamp and the battery negative terminal post. Turn off all lamps, remove the ignition key, and close all doors.
Also, all fuses were properly seated. Since the fuse layout map on the inside cover of the fuse box is tough to read for those of us with older eyes, and since there have been several threads requesting such a diagram, I thought I'd go ahead and post this for whoever finds it useful. Fuses should always be the first thing you check if your Liberty is experiencing electrical difficulties because they are relatively easy to check and inexpensive to change. Here is a pic Click to expand. Hope you day was better than mine! When I pulled this out I noticed a bunch of wires on two different wiring harnesses had been chewed on or chewed completely through! It was very late so I didn't have any time to look at anything else.
I checked the alternator and its producing right around 14V at idle. If the amperage reading now becomes very low or nonexistent, diagnose and repair the Charging System as necessary. Last night my wife and I jumped into her 08' Libby to head home, and for some reason the entire radio was dead. The wire size needed to keep voltage drop to 10% for the same distance is 00. Given than this is a crucial piece of equipment - to be used when you're totally screwed - spend the money on the ground wire and proper ring terminals. Now would be a good time to upgrade. Cheapest fix and it should get you going.
I keep meaning to go to a welding supply store to buy replacement wire for my winch. Some components may have multiple fuses, so make sure you check all of the fuses that are linked to the component in question. This is a repost to correct two minor cosmetic errors in the original thread. I don't know if there are any differences between the 2-door and the 4-door, nor if there were any changes between 2007 or 2008. If the current draw exceeds thirty-five milliamperes, isolate each circuit using the fuse and circuit breaker remove-and-replace process in. It should be in the owners manual for all fuse location and identification. None of the lights worked on it or anything.
To our luck, there was an Enterprise Rental Car location near by. The multi-meter leads must be securely clamped to the battery negative cable terminal clamp and the battery negative terminal post. When I got home I checked the fuse and it was fine. Any insights anybody has are appreciated. If checking and replacing the fuse for the component in question doesn't work, we recommend seeking assistance from a trusted professional mechanic.