I now have a new on order from 'The Tinternet', rather than risk wasting money on a Chinese 'replica' I went for a genuine Bosch item, another Ebay purchase. The same sensor after cleaning with a can of electrical cleaner. I plan on spraying with belt conditioner tonight to see if that stops. As usual, I searched the Internet to see if there was a precedence for this and found this site. But in many cases, it means at minimum that you'll be visiting the car dealer to locate the malfunction and get the light turned off.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Then this morning I started the car, drive 15 miles and the check engine light came on. If you suspect the condition may be related to aftermarket accessories, refer to Checking Aftermarket Accessories in Wiring Systems. After a fourteen hour weekend, I gave up and borrowed the wife's car to get to work on Monday. The trouble was, I could not find any. After you instruct it to perform the scan, it speaks with your car's computers to find out exactly what's prompting the light to turn on. One week of commuting has been passed without incident, so I may have found the cure.
Being naive, I assumed that my O2 sensor was 'sluggish' as my 'curve' looked rather disappointingly slow. I only undid the front connector and then turned it out of the way to get the torx bolts off of the plug cover. If you are doing this to keep your car? Yes, mine is a 'Wide band Equivalence' model. Despite all this work, the car still came back with the same 'check light' even after allowing a few weeks for things to settle down. It is small enought to whip around corners but big enough for the family with a spacious back seat. I have a check engine light on and I read the codes with a scanner.
It could be a better buy if it were a newer model but, the drive in this model has shown accelerated depreciation and buying it used will not be a good idea. Probably should clean or change the airfilter first, then go from there. Check back in a month to be sure. You may have noticed increased fuel consumption, loss of power and general 'lazyness'. This is my first post, I just picked up a 2005 Volvo S40 T5 about 2 weeks ago.
The only things I did related to fuel burning rich was the fuel filter and spark plugs. My kids are older and I thought it was time for me to get a car that I enjoyed driving instead of just for shuttling the kids about. My only worry was, 'Is it blocked further in? Not to mention the general census of opinion on the Volvo support sites is that the plugs of choice are Volvo orginal equipment. No other codes by the way. It was replaced for free under the extended warranty. Maybe Ill switch the turbo off.
I put it all back together and it ran like a top for about 30 miles than the engine light came on with a P0101 and P2188. So I am still working in the dark. Its still the safest car on the road and this model doesn't make me feel old like the cross country. The scanner read P2180 and P2178: system too rich off idle bank one and two, P2192 and P2194: system too rich higher load bank one and two, P0103: Mass or volume air flow circuit high input. My Theory: To get at the spark plugs I removed the front connection of the turbo hose that runs front to back on top of the engine. One last shot at fixing it before I had it over to the men in white coats with £1,000 'scopes.
Thanks P2178 - this might not help you but I want to get it logged anyway. The problem had made the car all but un-sellable as a trade-in, since no dealer wanted to take on board the risk of an expensive fix for its new owner. The stick in the background was cut to length so that I can check the brakes lights on the old Vectra. Each car maker uses a different techniques to check, but most often it's some type of fuel tank pressure sensor. It would be stupid not to check the throttle body while the intake was off, cleaning this up should help things. The Vauxhall Vectra used an older software program called from Gendan.
This value will decrease by approximately 3 kPa for every 305 meters 1,000 feet of altitude. The latter because the car is taking an age to warm up. Or put another way, the engine thought it was getting 52% to 59% more air than it was. The actual voltage of these remains quite stable and it is the current amps changing that forces the short term fuel trim to change. That has decreased to around a litre every 5,000 miles.
It seems I have been sold the wrong ones. I will add details later, but this little snippet may well help someone this weekend. Also need to check coolant temp sensor accuracy. With the oil separator box removed, the lower opening can clearly be seen to be clogged. It had been using about one litre every 750 miles. If there is no vacuum at the line, check for a broken or cracked area. Spark plugs typically need to be replaced every season or 25 hours of use.
Fuel trim from cold having re-set the computer was pretty good, a spike of -22, then one of -19, then a third of -16. These can range from a faulty spark plug lead, shorted kill switch or flywheel key damage. I did change the fuel filter in front of the drivers side rear wheel arch and take the fuel tank purge valve connector off and put it back on again, under the inlet manifold, access from the air filter side. Despite the best efforts of the cars air filter, a certain amount of dirt will still get into the air intake system. The solution is here : Volvo 140 P2178 Possible Solution : Disconnected, dirty or fouled spark plugs are common causes for engines that won't start. Recently I developed symptoms in the fuel delivery system, that I recognized as mix issues, especially at idle. A quick e-mail to and I confirmed that their 'Engine Check Pro' software would work with the Volvo S60's electronics.