If you spend the money on buying a decent head and matching cam set, then the engine will make somewhere around the designed power. Made from high silicon enhanced 4032 alloy that has lower thermal expansion. The bottom end; compression and components etc. In the early days when the 16V 1800 engine was used in a Mk2 under grA rules power was ca 190- 200 hp iirc. Managed to get 175 bhp out if it, on the stealth rollers 9 years ago. So he's got great facilities available to him? Not sure of tanks sizes and dimensions but would certainly be better than dealeing with heatsoak. But this is not to build a touring car engine, but something which anyone within reason with some engine building skills could put together.
Hi All, I know this may have been discussed before but its scattered everywhere i haven't found a post with just the engines and specs in detail. Offset wrist pins for quieter operation. That said, the bore and stroke should be considered before anything, as its dictates the engines characteristics. So he's got great facilities available to him? Fancy fuel would be a nice to have, everything 'steel' proper steel, not Chinese steel , safe at 9000rpm, loads compression, best pistons and comb chamber shape, biggest race valves you can get into the head, optimal cams, minimal induction and exhaust pressure losses, lots of dyno time, even more mods chasing gradual gains. The head will dictate the valve size, induction and the cams will dictate the valve gear and exhaust. Please list your specs of links below please.
CeeTwo wrote:I would advise chargecooling. Small end of rod needs to less than 23mm wide see Rod part number 105 102M Made from high silicon enhanced 4032 alloy that has lower thermal expansion. I have seen adverts of the old oettinger 16v head, and thought about making my own design similar. I've had loads of abf engines before but only ever played with one and it was only cylinder head modifications. And Sirguydo, I do have a few facilities to hand which helps if I need them, but hoping not to use them in this case. Might need an extra fan and radiatior.
Visual differences like Craig said is the intake and it didn't use the k-jet sysem, but instead used motronic i think. His car is a package that allows him to improve his driving craft and the engine and it's response is a part of the equation. Small end of rod needs to less than 23mm wide see Rod part number 105 102M Made from high silicon enhanced 4032 alloy that has lower thermal expansion. I'm not looking to do any fancy stuff to it yet. In excellent condition No time wasters Tags Abf 16v turbo Vr6 Gti Golf jetta 4 Polo gti 1. Ally you need to share your goals in more detail so the clubs resident experts can give you more advice. So this post was to give me an idea of what bolt on's and alittle work, forged pistons could give.
This set includes 4 pistons, rings, pins and clips. Been running a simple hob switch setup for 2years with no issues and my friend Brenna has been running for close to 3years on his Golf 5 gti in Clubmans racing and no problems yet. Hi The head castings are basically the same. This set includes 4 pistons, rings, pins and clips. Everything else is simply developed around them to suit. Nige has spent many years tuning his Golf from Kjet to throttle bodies to a 16v turbo that's had many hours of mapping to make it respond like a normally aspirated engine. This makes the fueling vital.
For a first build even with quite abit experience. This is in a Jetta 2. This will vary to get the time around track correct as this is the limitation for the class. Made from high silicon enhanced 4032 alloy that has lower thermal expansion. And looking at the exhaust side it is very restricted, and small ports. Nige is one example of 16v powertrain evolution.
Tell the head man what power you want and he will tell you what cams to use, induction sizes, inlet tract length, exhaust manifold dimensions and design etc. And later the 2l 16v in 9A form was introduced in the Corrado. The turbo can flow 450Hp. We not allowed to be faster that a certain time. I've even looked at doing a 20v head design on a 16v bottom end. I am building my own spec 16v head, and pistons. I would still have one aswell of I could afford it too.
CeeTwo wrote:I would advise chargecooling. Were do I take the water feed from for the turbo and were do I return it to? Cold extruded chrome moly steel wrist pins. Might need an extra fan and radiatior. I believe that a cooler the size of a stock Polo unit could be good for 400-450Hp if used in a chargecooled setup. Vw polo 2005 model for sale car drives very well an in everyday use alot of time an effort was put into the car.
And most of the leading cars in the class makes anything from 250-300kw but they are heavy bmw E36's and Golf 5 gti's Audi rs4's and so forth. I also think it was available in certain Passat models. The same with Gurdip, Rambow, Sparrow all running 16vTs with well over 300bhp as a number but with up to 260-300 lbft, something not possible with a 2. Ally you need to share your goals in more detail so the clubs resident experts can give you more advice. Cold extruded chrome moly steel wrist pins. Being in the tuning industry, you see pumps failing, controllers failing, solenoids etc jamming. They both have the same threaded openings in the head.
Or employ a pro builder who has done it before. I believe that a cooler the size of a stock Polo unit could be good for 400-450Hp if used in a chargecooled setup. This set includes 4 pistons, rings, pins and clips. Offset wrist pins for quieter operation. But by your comments I'm going to be lucky if I can push past the 260bhp before having to deck the head, block, race fuel and alot more work.